For Christmas, I gave Jeff a trip to Molokai with our friends Nick & Denice. Molokai is called the "Friendly Isle" because of its laid back atmosphere. It is a small place with few roads and no stoplights. everyone knows everyone else and people are much nicer than here in the big city of Honolulu.
Before our trip, Jeff, Denice, and I also read the wonderful book Molokai by Alan Brennert. We all loved it and agree that it made out trip to the town of Kalaupapa more interesting. The book chronicles the life of a young girl in the mid 1800s who is sent to the leper colony on the north shore of Molokai when she develops the disease. It's heartbreaking, but an excellent way to learn about a tragic time in US history that was not all that long ago.

The plane ride to Molokai is only about 20 minutes from Oahu. In order to get to
Kalaupapa, however, one must navigate the tallest
seacliffs in the world! Those who have money simply fly in, but everyone else is stuck with two options: donkeys or their own feet. We chose to hike down because it's good for us, and I'm pretty sure Butter Bean doesn't like riding donkeys. We started from the topside of Molokai at about 8AM and made it to the bottom of the 100+ year old, 3 mile trail at about 9:30. I had heard the trail was a super-scary cliff-hanger, but I thought it wasn't that bad, unless heights are a problem. Most of the trail was wide enough for a donkey, and is very well maintained.
We had to make
arrangements ahead of time to visit
Kalaupapa. The whole area is maintained by the US National Park Service and is owned now by the residents who live there until they die. Many people chose to stay there, even after a cure was found for leprosy, because they had lived there most of their lives. The tour is owned and operated by a married couple who are residents. The rules of the tour: no pictures of residents (most don't like the tour being there and so don't come out during tour-time) and no wandering away from the tour (the park rangers will slap you with a ticket for being more than twenty feet from the group!).

My favorite part of the day was visiting the beautiful churches in the settlement. They were the most cheery, serene churches I have ever seen. Very much like Latin America, they were filled with bright colors and lots of flowers. This makes sense when you consider that the Catholic church, initially through the priest named Father Damien, was trying to convert a group of people who were understandably bitter with the world. The churches here, all small wooden structures, are full of the hope that religion brings to those who feel they are forgotten by the world.

Father Damien is the most famous non-leper to be associated with the settlement. When he arrived, he ate from the same communal calabash (bowl for Hawaiian food) as the lepers. Over time, his persistence and selfless care for the sick convinced the residents that he truly wanted to help them. His also has a reputation as something of a tyrant, but no one can argue with the assistance he brought to the people
stricken with leprosy, even if he was strict in his approach to living. His grave is still a sacred site in the settlement and, as you can see above, is always covered with offerings of thanks.
The small rock above is the place where people with leprosy were "dropped off" from boats bringing them from around the islands. Because the area is normally extremely treacherous (Our guide said the day we visited was the calmest, clearest day he had ever seen.), it was too dangerous to get any closer to the rocky sea cliffs. Until a dock was built many years later, lepers had to swim from the rock in rough seas to the nearest piece of land and then climb the rocks up to flat land. Many of those thrown out of boats didn't make it because of missing digits or limbs; many others died from infected cuts they couldn't feel.

After our tour, we started back up the trail, gaining 1,700 feet in elevation over 2.5 miles. It took us about 2 hours - and I made it 4 months pregnant! We were a little worried about Butter Bean, but we did just fine. The rest of the weekend, we spent lounging around and touring the rest of the island. It was a wonderful trip and I would recommend a visit to anyone who wants to get away from it all!